I recently enjoyed two layovers in Beijing with my mum and the kids: one where we stayed in the airport (PEK) and one where we ventured into Beijing. I wanted to share what I learned and my personal experience of having a layover in Beijing so you can make the most of your own Beijing layover.
Below, you’ll find information on what to expect from a layover in Beijing PEK airport, and what you can expect if you decide to go into the city of Beijing.
Laying over in PEK Beijing Airport
Beijing Capital International Airport (PEK) is a vast hub with three terminals (T1, T2, T3) serving the capital of China. There is more than one airport in Beijing, so make sure you know which one you are flying into so you can plan your layover as best you can. PEK can handle over 100 million passengers a year, and it has steadily improved facilities for transit travellers – including those with children. A short layover (e.g. ~3 hours) will mostly keep you within the airport, so it’s good to know what to expect inside PEK. Below I address common questions and how to make the most of your time in the airport.
Do I need a visa?
For a brief layover where you do not leave the airport, you generally do not need a visa. If you’re just transiting in PEK from one country to another on a single ticket (and your luggage is checked through), you can stay in the transit area without going through Chinese immigration. In this case, you won’t enter China officially, so no visa is required. (You will still have to go through a security screening for transfers, which many travellers describe as the most tedious part of the process, but that’s all airside.) Please do check the government or embassy website for travel information for China which relates to your country for the most up-to-date information.
However, if you want to leave the airport during your layover (or if you have separate tickets requiring you to pick up luggage and re-check in), visa rules come into play. The good news is China has a generous transit visa exemption policy:
- 24-hour Transit Without Visa (TWOV) – Almost all nationalities can transit through Beijing for up to 24 hours without a visa, as long as your next flight is to a different country than where you came from. For example, London → Beijing → Hong Kong is fine (different countries), but London → Beijing → London is not (since that’s just a round-trip). If your layover is under 24 hours and you meet this criterion, you can leave the airport after obtaining a temporary stay permit stamp at immigration (it’s free).
- 144-hour / 240-hour Visa-Free Transit – Beijing (along with neighbouring Tianjin and Hebei) previously offered 72 or 144 hours visa-free, and as of late 2024 this has been extended to 240 hours (10 days) for citizens of 55 countries. You can view the full list of 55 countries here. The list covers most of Europe, the UK, USA, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, Japan, South Korea, Singapore, UAE, Qatar, Brazil, etc. If you’re from one of these countries and transiting through Beijing to a third country, you can enter China for up to 10 days without a visa. You must have an onward ticket beyond China within that time frame.
So, if you have a long layover (e.g. 20 hours) and wish to explore Beijing, you likely qualify for visa-free transit. On arrival, do not head to the regular immigration line; instead, go to the dedicated visa-free transit counter to apply for the temporary stay permit. You’ll fill out an arrival card (the form for “Temporary Entry of Foreigners” – usually available on the plane or at the airport) and present your passport and onward boarding pass. The officer will stamp a transit permit in your passport allowing you to exit the airport. This process is usually straightforward but allocate extra time, as there can be a queue of layover travellers. With that permit, you do not need a standard visa for your short stay in Beijing.
In summary: No visa needed to just transit airside. Visa-free permits are available for short trips into Beijing (24h for most, up to 240h for many nationalities) as long as you’re in transit to another country. If you don’t qualify for these (or want to stay longer than allowed), you would need a Chinese visa in advance. But for the vast majority of layovers, no advance visa is necessary. Always double-check your eligibility before departure (airline staff at check-in often verify transit visa rules).
Do I pass out of security?
This depends on your flight connections. If you are transferring from an international flight to another international flight at PEK on one itinerary, you typically stay airside – you will not go through full immigration and customs. Follow the purple “Transfer/Transit” signs after you deplane. You will go through a transit security checkpoint (so yes, you’ll go through a security screening again, with your carry-ons) but you do not exit into the public area. After security, you’ll be in the departures zone of the terminal waiting for your next flight. This means you don’t formally enter China, hence no visa needed in this scenario. This transit security can be time-consuming (lines and thorough checks), so if you have a tight connection, move quickly.
If you are connecting from an international flight to a domestic flight (within China), or vice versa, then you will need to go through immigration at Beijing. For example, if your route is Los Angeles → Beijing → Shanghai (with the second leg being a domestic flight), you’ll enter China in Beijing: go through immigration, collect any checked bags, pass customs, then go to the domestic departures area. In this case, you are entering China, so you’d need to either use the transit visa exemption (if Shanghai is your final exit within 24h/144h) or have a Chinese visa. Essentially, the first point of entry handles immigration.
If your flights are on separate tickets or different airlines that don’t transfer luggage, you’ll likely have to pick up your bags at PEK and re-check them, which forces you to exit security/immigration. Again, you’d use the visa-free transit stamp for this if eligible. Give yourself enough layover time in this scenario – between immigration lines, baggage claim, changing terminals (if needed), and security again, it can take a while.
Speaking of terminals: PEK has Terminal 3 and Terminal 2 for most international flights (Terminal 1 is smaller and mostly domestic). Know which terminals your flights use. Transferring between terminals requires leaving the secure area. PEK offers a free inter-terminal shuttle bus every 15 minutes that connects T3, T2, and T1. For example, if you arrive at T3 but depart from T2, you’d clear immigration (if coming from abroad), hop on the shuttle (outside arrivals), and then re-clear security in T2. The shuttle ride between T3 and T2 is around 10 minutes, but include wait time and navigation time. The Airport Express train also connects T3 -> T2 -> city, but that’s outside security as well. So unfortunately, you cannot stay airside if you have to change terminals – plan for that.
In short: Same-terminal international transfers keep you within security, just do transit security and head to your gate. Any scenario involving different terminals or entering China (domestic connections or leaving the airport) means you’ll exit and re-enter through security. If you do have to exit, make sure to budget time for immigration and another security check. The airport is well-marked in English, and staff can guide you if you’re unsure where to go for transfers.
Our experience of transferring to another flight in Terminal 2 was pretty smooth – though we did have special assistance booked which meant that we were taken exactly where we needed to go without any detours. We got from the plane to the departures area of Terminal 2 within about 40 minutes.
Eating in PEK Beijing Airport
One thing you won’t have to worry about during a layover in PEK is going hungry – the airport boasts a vast array of dining options, from local Chinese cuisine to international fast food. Spread across all terminals are restaurants, cafes, and food courts catering to different tastes and budgets.
If you’re craving a taste of Chinese cuisine, you can find everything from quick bowls of noodles and dumplings to Beijing specialties. For example, Crystal Jade in Terminal 3 (International Departures) is a well-regarded Cantonese restaurant known for delicious dim sum and noodle soups. There’s also Hua’s Restaurant (serving Peking duck and other Chinese dishes) and Qing Feng Steamed Bun Shop (famous for fluffy stuffed buns). You can indeed sample Peking Duck right at the airport – a nice introduction to Beijing’s food culture!
For a quick meal or familiar comfort food (especially for kids or picky eaters), PEK has plenty of Western and fast-food outlets. You’ll find McDonald’s, KFC, Burger King, and even a Pizza Hut, which can be a relief if your little ones just want chicken nuggets or pizza. Notably, there is a Starbucks in each terminal for your coffee fix, and places like Paris Baguette (bakery/café) for sandwiches and pastries.
A few surprises: there’s reportedly a Chick-Fil-A and a Dairy Queen in the airport, reflecting how international the food selection is. It must be in Terminal 3, as we did not come across these in Terminal 2.
Kid-friendly options are easy to find. Western chains mean you can get fries, burgers, or yogurt and fruit cups if that’s what your child will eat. Meanwhile, many Chinese eateries have picture menus; you can safely pick out dishes like fried rice, plain noodles, or dumplings which tend to be a hit with children. Keep in mind Chinese food can be spicy or have unfamiliar ingredients, so when ordering you can ask “no spice” (“不要辣, bú yào là”) if needed. Click here to learn how to pronounce it!
For sweet treats or a caffeine boost, apart from Starbucks you have places like Hey Tea (a popular Chinese tea shop known for cheese-topped tea drinks), ice cream stands, and multiple coffee shops (Pacific Coffee, Costa Coffee, etc.). There are also Chinese dessert kiosks if you’d like to try something like mango pudding or shaved ice.
Many eateries in PEK are open early and some late, to cater to odd-hour flights. However, during the deepest overnight hours (midnight to dawn), options will be limited – a few 24-hour spots exist (often a McDonald’s or a Chinese canteen). So plan to grab food before everything closes if you have an overnight layover.
One tip: prices at airport restaurants are higher than in the city (as expected), but still reasonable compared to Western airports. You can pay in Chinese yuan; some places may accept credit cards. If you’ve enabled a mobile payment app (WeChat Pay/Alipay) as discussed later, those are widely accepted even at fast food counters.
Lastly, don’t forget to stay hydrated – Beijing’s air can be dry. There are water fountains (including hot water dispensers for tea or baby formula) throughout the terminals, but it’s safest to stick to boiled or bottled water. You can buy bottled water easily at convenience stores in the airport (like Family Mart or 7-Eleven) for a few yuan.
Something to note: we landed at about 4.30am and were in Terminal 2 from 5am until we boarded our flight at around 7.15am and there was only one restaurant open at the time.
Shopping in Beijing Airport
If you love shopping (or just need to kill time), Beijing Capital Airport will keep you busy. Terminal 3, in particular, is bursting with shops ranging from luxury designer boutiques to souvenir stands. There are also plenty of stores selling electronics, cosmetics, liquor, and other duty-free goods.
For a more local touch, look out for shops selling Chinese specialties. Popular souvenirs include Chinese teas (often sold in beautiful tea sets and gift boxes), silk scarves and clothing, jade or cloisonné jewellery, calligraphy brushes, and Beijing opera masks. A tea shop can be a nice stop – you might even get to taste a sample. Traditional candy and snacks (like dried fruits, panda-shaped cookies, or spicy peanuts) are also fun to bring home; you’ll find these in the duty-paid gift shops.
Parents will be happy to know there are stores for kids too. For example, T100 Kids is a children’s clothing and accessories store. Toy sections can be found in some gift shops. Even the bookstores and newsstands in the airport often have a corner with toys or activity kits to entertain children on flights. If you forgot any baby essentials, try the convenience stores or pharmacy.
Browsing the airport shops can actually be a mini cultural experience. You’ll see displays of items like silk qipaos (traditional dresses), delicate porcelain, and even calligraphy sets. Some shops offer handicrafts like paper-cut art or cloisonné enamel vases. Don’t be shy about strolling through and looking even if you don’t plan to buy – the staff are generally used to window-shoppers in airports.
Prices for luxury brands will be similar to elsewhere (though duty-free means tax savings if applicable). Souvenir prices can be a bit marked up. You can use credit cards in most larger stores; for small purchases, having some yuan cash is handy. I ordered some yuan in advance of our trip via John Lewis’s travel money website. You can order via Topcashback (to earn a bonus in cashback on your spend) and pay with a travel reward card (to earn travel rewards on the same spend). They do next day delivery so you can even do it at short notice!
Note that bargaining is not the norm in airport stores (unlike some markets in the city). We also found that everything closed up from around 2am and was still closed when we boarded our flight from Terminal 2 at about 7.15am.
Beyond eating and shopping, PEK offers some unique and family-friendly ways to spend time: Each terminal has a children’s play zone where kids can climb and play on padded equipment. In fact, in 2015 the airport installed themed play areas in T1, T2, and T3 (with designs like a “Panda Paradise” and a “Kids’ Airfield” complete with toy planes). These zones are usually near the gates (for example, main play areas in T3 are around Gates C4, C9, and E21). They’re free to use and often have soft flooring and seating for parents – perfect for letting your little ones blow off steam between flights. Occasionally, staff or volunteers even dress up in cartoon costumes to entertain kids, and you’ll be more likely to encounter this during a holiday event.
PEK also infuses Chinese culture into the terminal design. Terminal 3 features indoor gardens and traditional décor – keep an eye out for the “Royal Garden” and “Suzhou Garden” areas with pavilions and water features. In one such area, there’s a pond where you can feed fish – the airport provides fish food between 9am and 3pm for passengers to feed the koi! This can be a calming, almost therapeutic activity for kids (and adults) who need a break from the hustle. Around lunchtime, you might even catch a live performance near the central fountain in T3.
Art installations are scattered throughout the terminals. There’s the impressive “Rainbow Bridge” fountain in the duty-free atrium and the “Starry Sky” lighted corridor near some gates in T3.
For those seeking relaxation, PEK has free rest zones with reclining chairs, soft lighting, and relatively quiet ambience. These are great if you need a nap or simply a low-sensory environment for a while. Travelers with sensory-sensitive children might find these zones useful – pop on noise-cancelling headphones and relax. There are also spa and massage services in the airport (some lounges have free massage chairs and there are pay-for-use spa kiosks).
Finally, if you have a very long layover and want to freshen up or sleep, remember the airport has hourly lounges/hotels (we’ll touch on that in the Lounges section). These can be a good alternative to staying in the public area.
If you want to plan ahead of time, you can find out which terminal you will likely fly in by checking the airport arrivals for the same day and time your flight will arrive and see which terminal it is due to land it. It is very likely that your flight will land in the same place. I managed to track a flight doing the same route as us before our trip to find out we will likely land in Terminal 2 of PEK.
Overall, Beijing Capital Airport is quite well-equipped to keep you and your family entertained during a layover – from play areas and cultural showcases to abundant food and shopping. You might be surprised that time passes quicker than expected!
Lounges in PEK Airport
If you have lounge access (via business/first class, elite status, or programs like Priority Pass), or you’re considering paying for it, Beijing Capital has a number of lounges across its terminals. A lounge can provide a quieter environment, free snacks and drinks, and other amenities which can be a godsend during a layover – especially with children in tow.
Airline Lounges: The main carrier at PEK is Air China (Star Alliance), which operates several lounges. In Terminal 3, Air China has both a Business Class lounge and a First Class lounge in the international section, and another lounge in the domestic section. Terminal 2 also has an Air China lounge for international departures. These lounges typically offer buffet-style Chinese and Western food, beverages, wifi, and shower facilities. They tend to be spacious but can get crowded during peak banks of flights.
Other airlines use contract lounges. For example, many SkyTeam airlines (and Oneworld, etc.) might direct premium passengers to the BGS Premier Lounge in Terminal 3E. This lounge is also accessible via Priority Pass and similar memberships. The BGS Premier Lounge near Gate E19 is quite well-regarded for a contract lounge: it has a snack buffet, drinks, a few massage chairs, a small quiet resting area, and even shower rooms. Their policy explicitly states children under 2 years old are admitted free, and they cap stays at 3 hours. If your child is older than 2, they would either need their own entry pass or count as a guest on your membership.
Another lounge option in Terminal 3 is the Air China Transit Lounge (T3-C) on the domestic side; it’s a pay-for-use lounge mainly for domestic connections but has some nap rooms and a shower. Terminal 2 has a Plaza Premium Lounge (open to all for a fee or memberships) which offers similar amenities – a comfortable spot while you wait for boarding.
Family-friendliness: While most lounges in Beijing don’t have elaborate kids’ play rooms, they are generally family-welcoming. Lounges like BGS Premier and Plaza Premium do allow children, and as noted, infants/toddlers under 2 often are free entry. Some lounges may have a small kids’ corner or at least family seating areas. In fact, VIP services at PEK highlight “children’s play areas in designated lounges” as part of their amenities. This suggests that certain lounges (perhaps the Air China domestic lounge or a high-end VIP lounge) have a little play zone or toys. It’s worth asking the front desk if they have anything for kids.
If you have an autistic child or a child with sensory sensitivities, a lounge can be a refuge. It’s quieter than the gate areas and you can often find a corner with some privacy. The lighting is usually softer and you can control your seating position (e.g. face away from crowds). Many lounges in PEK have “quiet rooms” or nap rooms – for example, the BGS Premier Lounge has a “sleeping zone.”
Showers and Rest: After a long flight, a hot shower can make a world of difference. Most international lounges in Beijing (Air China, BGS, Plaza Premium) have shower facilities. And lets be honest, knowing where the showers are when travelling with kids (especially diapered ones) is just good preparation! They’ll provide towels and basic toiletries. There can be a wait during busy times, so put your name down early.
Access without membership: If you don’t have free access, you can purchase a lounge pass at reception or often online via sites like GetYourGuide or Klook. Also, check if your credit card grants lounge access or if you can use something like DragonPass. With a family, you’ll have to consider cost for multiple people. Some lounges have discounted rates for kids or allow young children in free; always ask.
Hourly Hotel (Hourly Lounge): Apart from traditional lounges, PEK Terminal 3E has an Hourly Rate Hotel/Lounge inside security. This is essentially a small hotel within the terminal. If you really want a private space to sleep for a few hours, you can rent a room. The rooms are basic but have a bed and shower. The location in T3 is near Gate E10 (for international) and there’s also one in T3-C (domestic area). This could be worthwhile if you have an exhausted child who could use a quiet nap in a bed. Note that these rooms are limited, so sometimes they sell out. There’s a front desk you can inquire at upon arrival. In Terminal 2, there isn’t a full transit hotel airside, but there are “rest cabins” or chairs you can pay for, and landside of T2 there are a couple of airport hotels (but those require exiting immigration).
In summary, lounges in PEK can greatly enhance your layover comfort. All major lounges provide free Wi-Fi, ample power outlets, and a selection of Chinese and Western food. Many have views of the tarmac which kids might love – plane spotting in a comfy chair with a snack in hand. Whether you use a lounge or not, just know these options exist. And if your ticket or status gets you in, by all means take advantage of it to recharge before the next leg of your journey.
Layover in Beijing city
If you have a longer layover, you can venture out of the airport and experience some of Beijing’s incredible sights. For us, we landed very in Beijing at around 8.30pm and then flew out of Beijing after at around 3am a few days later. Below we’ll cover what you need to know about leaving the airport, exploring Beijing (even with kids in tow), and making it back in time.
Visa-free transit rules
As discussed earlier, Beijing allows visa-free transit for most travellers, which is ideal for layovers. To recap and detail:
- 24-hour visa-free transit: This applies to almost all nationalities. If your total time in China (from scheduled arrival to scheduled departure) is under 24 hours, you can stay without a visa, regardless of nationality, as long as you are in transit to a third country. This is a blanket rule, but note you still need to get the temporary stay permit stamp at immigration if you plan to leave the airport. Sometimes, even if you stay in the airport under 24h, you might go through a special transit immigration line that stamps your passport – but you won’t need a visa.
- 144-hour / 240-hour visa-free transit: For citizens of 55 specified countries (including USA, Canada, UK, EU Schengen countries, Australia, New Zealand, Russia, Brazil, Japan, South Korea, among others), China now offers up to 10 days (240 hours) visa-free transit in certain cities, Beijing included. You can find the full list of nationalities that qualify here. This was an expansion from the previous 72/144-hour policy. Practically, for a layover of 20 hours, the 24-hour exemption already covers you; but knowing you technically have longer is useful if, say, your flight gets delayed or you decide to schedule an even longer stopover. The key conditions are: you must be arriving from Country A and departing to Country C (where A ≠ C), and you cannot leave the allowed transit region. For Beijing transit without a visa, the “region” you can travel in includes Beijing city, Tianjin, and Hebei province (though for a short stay you’ll likely just stick to Beijing city). This is the method we used to enter Beijing.
- Procedure: When you land at PEK, follow signs for “Visa-Free Transit” or “Temporary Entry Permit”. In Terminal 3, there’s usually a dedicated counter or line for this before the normal immigration desks. You will fill out an arrival card indicating transit without visa. In Terminal 2, you will come to the area where you would normally show your passport. It is here that you need to do the paperwork to get the visa-free transit. Be mindful to be very clear how you plan to enter Beijing because the staff there may assume you plan to get a visa (this is what happened to us). The arrival card is for those who have or need an actual visa, so don’t waste your time with this as it is useless if you plan to transfer visa-free. Have your onward boarding pass or flight confirmation ready to show the officer – they need proof that you’re booked to leave China within the allowed time. I showed the officer my flight information but it wasn’t enough – they needed to see that the flight was linked to each individual name that was applying for the visa. Luckily, I had an esim installed and was able to pull this up without too much bother. The officer will issue the permit as a stamp in your passport (it’s typically a stamp with a date and “Stay Permitted to [date]” indicated, ours was actually a full sticker put into out passport). Once you have that, you proceed to baggage claim (if you checked bags) and then you can head through the final check at customs and out to the taxi rank.
A few important tips:
- Inform your airline at check-in (from your origin) that you intend to do a transit without visa in Beijing. They sometimes ask if you have a Chinese visa; you tell them you’ll use the transit exemption. Some airlines might not be fully familiar, but most know the policy for Beijing. It can help to avoid or minimise confusion or issues when boarding your flight to China. Apparently, it is not uncommon for airlines to claim they will not allow you to board if you do not meet the visa-free transit requirements – just look into them and understand them before you go. You can always ask chatgpt to look over everything and figure out your eligibility.
- Make sure you don’t schedule your two flights such that they’re technically not “transit.” For example, the country that you are in before China, must be different than the one you will land in after China. I saw an Instagram reel with a really good example of this catching a couple out: they had booked flights from Hawaii to Japan, with a layover in China. The thing is, they actually had to make a planned stop in Japan after Hawaii, but before China. This meant that in the eyes of the Chinese immigration they were actually flying from Japan, to China, to Japan which does not meet the criteria for the visa-free transit as it must be country 1 to China (country 2) and then on to a 3rd country. As long as you show both tickets and the onward is to a third country, you will be fine. If you have separate tickets, print them out or have screenshots in case you need to convince the officer of your route.
- Time calculations: The 24h or 144/240h count from the scheduled arrival time to scheduled departure time. If you have a 20h layover, you’re well within limits. If someone had, say, a 30h layover and they’re from one of the 55 countries, the 240h rule covers them. If someone not from those 55 had a 30h layover, they would not qualify and would need a visa or to change plans. So it’s always about both nationality and hours.
- Staying within the region: For a layover in Beijing, this isn’t a big issue – you’re not going to venture beyond the city in such short time except maybe to the Great Wall (which is within Beijing region). Just don’t plan to, say, take a bullet train to Shanghai or fly to another Chinese city during your layover – that would violate the transit terms.
- Documents: Keep your onward boarding pass and passport with the transit stamp with you at all times when out in the city. Hotels may ask for your passport (they’ll register your temporary stay, which is routine and okay under the transit scheme). Technically you’re supposed to register with local police if you stay more than 24h, but if you’re in a hotel, the hotel does this for you.
In summary, Beijing’s visa-free transit rules are very accommodating – and they are specifically designed to encourage travellers to spend layovers exploring the city. Just remember to be back in time for your onward flight, as the transit permit is for continuous transit (missing your departing flight could complicate things, as you’d potentially overstay your visa-free period).
Getting to Beijing from PEK Airport
Once you’ve cleared immigration and have the green light to explore, your next step is actually getting from the airport (which is about 30 km northeast of central Beijing) into the city. There are several transportation options:
- Airport Express Train & Subway – Beijing Capital Airport has a dedicated Airport Express train line. It departs from Terminal 3 (station is on Level 2 of the parking garage) and stops at Terminal 2, then goes into the city. The whole ride to the city is about 20 minutes to the final stop Dongzhimen. Dongzhimen is a major subway interchange on Line 2 and Line 13. The fare for the Airport Express is RMB 30 one-way. From Dongzhimen, you can transfer easily to the rest of the city by metro – for example, Line 2 can take you towards the Forbidden City area in just a few stops. The benefit of the train is speed and no traffic. Trains run roughly every 10 minutes from about 6:00 AM till ~10:30 PM. If your layover timing means you land during the day or early evening, this is a very efficient option. With kids, it’s also kind of fun (it’s a modern, clean train). However, keep in mind you’ll need to manage any luggage you have. The trains have luggage racks and are built for airport travellers, so it’s not too hard. If your child is sensitive to noise or crowds: the Airport Express is usually not very crowded. From Dongzhimen, you might catch a taxi or continue by subway to your specific destination. Subway fare in Beijing is cheap (maybe RMB 3-5 for a short ride).
- Taxi – Readily available and straightforward. A taxi from PEK to central Beijing (say around the Forbidden City/Tiananmen area) takes about 1 hour in normal traffic. It can be faster late at night (30-45 minutes with no traffic) or much slower in peak traffic (even 1.5 hours if you are unlucky). Cost is roughly ¥100 in the daytime. After 11pm, rates go up by 20%, so closer to ¥130-150 at night. A larger taxi will also cost more – we needed one of the largest ones because we were five people with multiple suitcases and a double pushchair. Taxis queue right outside the arrivals halls – follow signs for taxi, and only take licensed taxis from the official line. From Terminal 2, we found this very easy because there was a staffed desk at the taxi rank and they organised everything for us and helped me learn how to make my first Alipay payment. Ignore any touts who approach you inside offering rides. Our ride cost about ¥260. We agreed the price upfront with the driver so that we could make the payment at the counter before we left for Beijing. Licensed taxis are metered; they should start the meter (flagfall ~¥13) and you pay what’s on the meter (plus toll if using the highway, which is ¥10 – often the driver will add that or ask you to pay that in cash). Beijing taxi drivers may not speak English, so have your destination written in Chinese (you can get this from a hotel reservation or use a translation app or a map app). Most taxis are standard sedans – if you have a lot of luggage or a stroller, it can be tight but usually fits in the trunk. Note: car seats are not commonly used in China; taxis certainly won’t have them. If you require a car seat, you’d need to bring your own and install it (which is doable – they have shoulder belts in the back).
- Ride-hailing (DiDi) – DiDi is the Chinese Uber. There is an English version of the DiDi app that foreigners can use; you can link an international credit card to it or pay via Apple Pay, etc. At PEK, you can use DiDi to call a car (there are specific pickup zones). The advantage is you can input your destination in English and the app translates it for the driver, so no language barrier. Price for a DiDi is similar to a taxi (sometimes a bit less, sometimes surge a bit more). One useful feature: you can order larger vehicles on DiDi (like a 7-seater van if you have a big family or lots of luggage). If you already have internet on your phone (through airport Wi-Fi or a China SIM), DiDi could be a convenient choice. Otherwise, you might end up using the regular taxi queue since it’s right there.
- Airport Shuttle Bus – Capital Airport operates several shuttle bus routes into different parts of Beijing. These are large coach buses. For example, one route goes to Beijing Railway Station, another to Beijing West Station, others to various districts and major hotels. The fare is around ¥25-30. They can be handy if you’re headed to a specific area they serve and want a cheaper option than a taxi. However, they can be slow (they make stops, and you may hit traffic). Also, if you have kids and luggage, getting on and off a bus and maybe walking from the drop-off to your hotel or destination might not be ideal. The first shuttle buses usually start around 7:30 AM and last ones around 11:00 PM, so overnight they don’t run. If you arrive very late, no bus.
- Private Transfer / Driver – Some people arrange a private car and driver in advance, especially if they book a tour (more on layover tours next). A private transfer can be the most convenient (driver greets you with a name sign, takes you straight to a car, no waiting). This is of course pricier – roughly ¥300-600 ($50-$100) depending on service, maybe more for a round-trip package. However, if you are a family with an autistic child and you want to minimize transitions and uncertainty, having a pre-booked driver can reduce stress. The driver (or guide) will handle navigation and any language issues. Companies like China Highlights or other tour operators like GetYourGuide offer transfer services.
Getting around within Beijing: Once you’re in the city, you can use taxis or the subway to move between sights. The Beijing Subway is extensive and cheap, with signs and announcements in English. It can get crowded, especially during rush hours, but outside of those times it’s pretty user-friendly. Taxis are inexpensive compared to many cities – flagging one on the street is common (green roofs for local cabs). Just have your destination written down (hotel concierges, tourist info, or Google Translate can help with this). Also consider walking for short distances – central Beijing around Tiananmen and Wangfujing is walkable and can be interesting at street level.
One more note: time considerations for return – Aim to be back at the airport at least 3 hours before your onward international flight departure. You’ll need to go through exit immigration and security. If you’re returning during peak traffic, factor that in. Things in China can be strict, keep in mind that you may spend extra time at security having your luggage checked – they pulled me aside to check one of my checked bags and then again to check one of my hand luggage bags.
Doing an arranged layover tour
If planning the logistics of sightseeing in a short time feels daunting – especially with kids – you might consider booking an arranged layover tour. Beijing has several tour operators that specialize in layover packages, where they take care of everything: pick-up at the airport, transportation to sites, guided tour, and drop-off back at the airport (or at a hotel if you are staying overnight). You can also find these on GetYourGuide.
Examples from GetYourGuide:
- Beijing layover private tour, Great Wall or city sites
- Private tour to Mutianyu Great Wall
- Layover tour to the Great Wall and the Forbidden City
- Layover tour to the Great Wall and the Summer Palace
- City tour of Beijing at night during a layover
- Book a private car or van with driver
Pros of a layover tour: It’s hassle-free. You don’t need to worry about language, finding a taxi, buying tickets at attractions, or managing time – the guide does it. They know exactly which spots are feasible given your layover length. For families, a private tour means you can move at your own pace and adjust on the fly (need an unscheduled snack stop or potty break? no problem). The guide can also provide rich information about the sights, making your short visit more meaningful.
What tours are available? Common offerings include:
- Great Wall layover tour: Very popular, since many travellers specifically want to see the Great Wall. The tour might involve picking you up in the morning from the airport or your airport hotel, driving ~1 hour to Mutianyu Great Wall, spending 2-3 hours there (taking the cable car up, walking on the wall, perhaps riding the toboggan down), and then returning you to the airport. Some include a stop for a quick meal or a visit to a nearby village. This is doable in, say, an 8-10 hour window. Here is an option for a private layover tour to the Great Wall via GetYourGuide.
- City highlights layover tour: If the Wall feels too far or you prefer city sights, tours can cover Tiananmen Square, Forbidden City, and maybe Temple of Heaven or Summer Palace if time permits. For instance, a guide could pick you up, take you to Tiananmen (walk around the square), then into the Forbidden City with pre-booked tickets (important: Forbidden City is closed on Mondays, except some holidays). After that, you might ride a rickshaw in a hutong or visit the Temple of Heaven park to see local life, then head back. These itineraries vary but aim to give you a taste of Beijing’s culture and history. Here is an option via GetYourGuide for a city sights tour in Beijing.
- Night layover tour: Some might wonder if a night tour is possible. There are indeed night tours (for those with overnight layovers) – e.g., a guide can pick you up and drive you around to see the Olympic Bird’s Nest stadium lit up, the CCTV Tower architecture, maybe stop at a night market for street food, or go to a viewpoint in the city for the skyline. You could also do a foodie tour or see an acrobatic show if timing aligns. Here is a night tour in Beijing option via GetYourGuide.
Customization: Most layover tour operators are flexible. You can discuss your interests and limits with the tour company beforehand. Companies like Beijing Layover Tour, ChinaHighlights, TravelChinaGuide, or even via platforms like GetYourGuide offer these services. There are many reviews online (even on TripAdvisor or Reddit) for layover tours – generally positive, as people are thrilled to squeeze in a Great Wall visit on a short stop.
Children and autism considerations: When booking, inform the operator that you have kids and mention any specific needs (e.g., your child with autism might not handle loud crowded places well). They can suggest the most suitable attractions and timing. For instance, a guide might take you to a less crowded section of the Wall, or ensure to find a quieter spot in a park for a break if needed. They might also bring a child car seat if you request it (some have them available). Guides in Beijing have seen all types of travellers; a good one will be patient and understanding. A private car also means if your child has a meltdown or needs a break, you can always retreat to the car a bit or adjust the plan.
One popular family-friendly tour is a Great Wall + nearby local village combo, where after the Wall you stop in a village for lunch at a farmer’s restaurant – this gives kids a chance to experience a bit of the countryside and run around safely. Another is taking a pedicab ride in the Hutongs, which kids often find fun (like a little adventure ride through the alleyways).
Overall, an arranged tour is an excellent way to maximize a short time without stress. You essentially outsource the planning to experts who have done this dozens of times. If it’s within your budget, it can be well worth it to create a memorable experience (and check off a bucket list item like the Great Wall) with minimal worry about the clock.
Visiting The Great Wall of China
Let’s be honest: for many travellers, a layover in Beijing is synonymous with a chance to see the Great Wall of China. And it’s totally understandable – the Great Wall is one of the world’s most iconic landmarks, and Beijing Capital Airport’s location means you’re surprisingly close to some accessible sections of the Wall. If you have at least 8 hours of daylight layover, a trip to the Great Wall is feasible and often the highlight of one’s stopover.
Which section to visit? Beijing has a few famous Great Wall sections. The two most famous are Badaling and Mutianyu. Badaling is the best-restored and was the first to open to tourists – but it’s also the most crowded and touristy. Mutianyu, on the other hand, is a favourite for foreign visitors and families. It’s about 70 km from the airport – roughly a 1 to 1.5-hour drive (less if traffic is light, since it’s in a rural area north of the city). Mutianyu offers stunning scenery, a cable car, and a toboggan slide. It is also usually less crowded than Badaling, making it a more pleasant experience if time is short or if someone in your family doesn’t do well with dense crowds.
Getting there: The easiest way is to hire a car or take a tour (as mentioned above). If you were to DIY without a tour: you could rent a car with a driver (your hotel or airport info desk might have car hire services – negotiate a price for a half-day). There are also bus tours that go to Mutianyu daily from the city, but their schedules may not match with a layover and they depart early morning. Public transportation to Mutianyu is possible (Airport Express + subway + bus + shuttle… quite convoluted and time-consuming– not recommended for a short layover) and then you’d have to purchase an entry ticket too. So, likely you will go by private car or taxi. Ensure the driver waits for you there (you’ll need a way back!). Again, that’s why a private tour is convenient.
Mutianyu specifics: When you arrive, there is a visitor’s centre. From there, you take a park shuttle or a short cablecar to the foot of the wall (the wall itself is perched along mountain ridges). At Mutianyu, you have options to ascend: a cable car that takes you near Tower 14, or a chairlift that takes you near Tower 6. With kids, the cable car (an enclosed gondola type) is usually best – safe and less scary for those afraid of heights. The views on the ride up are great. Once on the wall, you can walk along the ramparts and through watchtowers. It’s steep in some areas, but you can choose how far to go. Even a short walk gives you an amazing feel of the Wall’s scale and the surrounding mountains.
TIP: You can also tour the Great Wall at night – a fantastic option for those with a later layover. Check out the night tours to the Great Wall on GetYourGuide.
One fun feature: the toboggan slide. Near where the chairlift goes (Tower 6 area), there is a long metal luge-like slide that winds down the hillside. You sit on a wheeled sled (with a hand brake to control speed) and you can slide down back to the bottom. It’s safe and not too fast if you control it – actually you can go at your own pace because they dispatch sleds with space in between. Kids usually love this (minimum age/height might apply; small kids can ride with a parent). Autistic children who seek sensory input might also really enjoy the vestibular sensation of the slide – or they might find it too much; you’ll know best. If not comfortable, you can always take the cable car or chairlift down the way you came. The slide is optional but many families cite it as a trip highlight. You can grab tickets for the toboggan slide here.
Time needed: At Mutianyu, budget about 2-3 hours on-site. For example, 30 minutes to get from parking, shuttle, to the wall; 1-2 hours walking on the wall; maybe 15 minutes for the slide down. Add drive time 1-1.5h each way. So from airport and back, ideally you want a ~6 hour window at minimum. You have more than that, so you’re in good shape. If you start early in the morning (many tours aim to leave city around 7 or 8 AM to avoid traffic and crowds), you could be on the wall by 9 AM, done by 11:30, and back to the airport by 1 PM or so. That fits nicely for a flight departing late afternoon.
With children: Keep in mind the Wall involves a lot of steps – uneven, ancient steps of varying heights. You’ll want sturdy shoes (no flip-flops or heels!). Little kids might tire quickly, so be prepared to take breaks (bring water and snacks in a small daypack). In hotter months, the sun is strong up there – sunscreen and hats are a must, and bug spray in summer because it’s wooded. In colder months, the wind on the wall can be biting – bundle up in layers. Autumn (Sept-Oct) is beautiful with coloured foliage; spring is lovely with flowers but can be windy; winter can be empty but very cold and sometimes snow-covered.
For an autistic child, the Great Wall can actually be a comfortable outing if timed well. It’s outdoors (plenty of space to move), and if you go early, it’s quiet with just nature and stunning views. There’s no loudspeaker or overwhelming stimuli, aside from perhaps the stimulus of an open high place (if fear of heights is an issue, the cable car might be daunting but it’s very secure). If your child cannot handle the wall walking, even just seeing it from the bottom or taking the cable car up and sitting in a tower for a short time is an accomplishment – you can all head back down whenever you want.
Facilities at Mutianyu are decent: there are toilets at the entrance and at the top cable car station (not on the wall itself beyond that). At the base are a few restaurants and souvenir stalls. However, given time constraints, you might prefer to eat either before going or once back in the city/airport.
Visiting the Great Wall is highly recommended if your layover schedule permits – it’s not every day you can check off a Wonder of the World in between flights! Just ensure the rest of your trip (immigration, transport) goes smoothly by planning, and you’ll be telling everyone you “went to China and climbed the Great Wall on a layover” – pretty cool bragging rights for you and an amazing experience for the kids to learn from.
What to do in Beijing on a layover
Besides the Great Wall, Beijing offers a wealth of attractions. With roughly a day (or parts of two days) at your disposal, you can pick a couple of highlights to visit. Here are some top things to consider, especially keeping children (and limited time) in mind:
- Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City: This is the heart of Beijing. Tiananmen Square is a huge open square – the largest city square in the world – surrounded by monuments (the Mausoleum of Mao Zedong, the Monument to the People’s Heroes) and important buildings like the National Museum. It’s a symbolic place where you can literally feel the breadth of Chinese history and state. Kids might just see a big open space, but they may enjoy watching the soldiers marching near the flagpole (there’s a flag-raising at sunrise and flag-lowering at sunset daily). Right to the north of the square is the Forbidden City (Palace Museum), the former imperial palace of the Ming and Qing emperors. It’s a vast complex of ornate halls, courtyards, and palaces – truly a must-see if you can. If you go in, you’ll walk through from south (Meridian Gate) to north (Gate of Divine Prowess). It can easily take 1.5 to 2 hours to walk through even just the main route. With kids, you might not linger in every museum room, but highlights like the Hall of Supreme Harmony (with the dragon throne) are not to be missed. The Forbidden City can be very crowded; try to go early in the morning right when it opens (usually 8:30 AM) to avoid the worst crowds. Tickets need to be purchased (or pre-booked online using passports). If you have a guide, they handle it. Without a guide, the ticket office is on the side of the entrance or ticket machines – nowadays they use passport scanning. This site is definitely one where older kids can marvel at the ancient architecture and younger kids might enjoy the big open courtyards to run a bit (though keep them close, as it’s a maze and losing track is easy in crowds). Check out Tiananmen Square on Google maps, or have a look at The Forbidden City.
- Temple of Heaven: This is a beautiful park and temple in south-central Beijing (not far from the Forbidden City by car or metro). The main structure, the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests, is a round, three-tiered pagoda-like temple on a platform – very picturesque. The park around it is lovely for walks. Mornings here are great: you’ll see locals doing tai chi, flying kites, playing music. It’s a nice slice of local life. If your layover morning allows, a stroll here could be relaxing, and kids often like imitating tai chi moves or watching retirees play hacky-sack or dance. The Temple itself requires tickets to enter the inner compound. It’s not a long visit – maybe 1 hour is enough. Check out the Temple of Heaven on Google maps.
- Summer Palace: If your layover day is warm and you prefer an outdoor sight within the city, the Summer Palace (Yiheyuan) is an imperial garden with a large lake, bridges, and a hill dotted with temples. Empress Cixi’s residence. It’s like a park visit plus historical site. You can rent a paddle boat on the lake which could be fun for kids. However, it’s in the northwest of the city – a bit far from the airport (about 1 hour drive from PEK). It might be better for those staying a bit longer or those extremely keen on imperial gardens. In a short layover, Summer Palace might be a stretch unless you skip other things. Check out Summer Palace on Google maps. If you do go, consider getting tickets that come with an eguide to help make your visit run smoothly.
- Hutongs (old alleyways): As mentioned, Beijing’s hutongs are the old neighbourhoods of narrow lanes and courtyard houses. Taking a rickshaw (pedicab) tour through a hutong area can be both fun and cultural. You get to see traditional courtyard architecture, and often tours stop at a local family’s courtyard home where you can go in and see how life used to be (some are set up sort of as demonstrations). Areas to consider: Nanluoguxiang (a somewhat commercialized hutong street with shops and cafes – fun for snacks and souvenirs), or the Shichahai / Houhai area, which is around a scenic lake with hutongs around it. Houhai might be nice if the weather’s good – you could walk around the lake, even take a pedal boat there too, and have lunch in a cafe, or visit the hutongs for a breakfast tour. There’s also the famous Drum Tower and Bell Tower in that area (ancient timekeeping towers) – you can climb the Drum Tower and even catch a drum performance on the big ancient drums (scheduled times each day). The drumming is loud but impressive – something kids may find cool (ear protection if sensitive to noise). I have linked the names of the areas to their location on Google maps to make it easier for you to plan.
- Modern sights: If you or the kids are into modern architecture, Beijing has some striking buildings you could just drive by or stop for a photo: The “Bird’s Nest” National Stadium from the 2008 Olympics, right next to the Water Cube Aquatic Center – both light up beautifully at night. Or the CCTV Headquarters building (often called “The Big Pants” by locals due to its shape). A drive down Chang’an Avenue (the main east-west artery by Tiananmen) will show you a mix of old and new Beijing.
- Shopping streets: If you need to pick up souvenirs or just want to wander, Wangfujing Street is the main downtown shopping street. It has malls, souvenir shops, and the famous Wangfujing Snack Street (a side alley with all sorts of street foods like candied fruit, lamb kebabs, exotic items like scorpions on sticks – mostly for tourists but still interesting). In the evening, Wangfujing can be lively. Another famous market is the Pearl Market or Silk Market (names of buildings where tourists buy knock-off goods and souvenirs) – but those can be a bit overwhelming with aggressive vendors; not my first choice with kids in tow.
For kids, especially young ones, factor in some downtime. Maybe after a big sightseeing like the Wall or Forbidden City, take a break at a cafe or let them play in a park for a bit (Jingshan Park behind the Forbidden City is small but has a hill you can climb for a panoramic view – climbing might be too much after the Wall though!). And don’t forget to download the Playground Buddy app to find playgrounds anywhere in the world! Bring snacks that your kids like, as Chinese snacks might be hit or miss for them. Though do let them try things like “Tanghulu” (sugar-coated fruit on a stick) which you’ll find from street vendors – many kids love the crunchy sweet coating and tart fruit inside (typically hawthorns or strawberries).
One more idea: If you’re out in evening, you could catch a Kung Fu Show or Acrobatics Show (there are theatres that have nightly performances catered to tourists – very entertaining visuals, no language barrier). The Red Theatre has a famous Kung Fu show and it is easy to grab tickets with GetYourGuide, Chaoyang Theatre has acrobats and you can get tickets here. But these shows usually are around 7:30 PM and last 1-1.5h. If your schedule the night before departure allows (and the kids aren’t too jetlagged), it’s an option.
Remember, traffic in Beijing can eat time. Always leave a cushion. Also check the opening days of attractions: Forbidden City is closed Mondays; some attractions have early last entry times in winter (Forbidden City stops entry by around 3:30 PM in off-season because it closes by 5). So plan according to the day of week and season.
Where to stay during a Beijing layover
During a longer layover in Beijing that includes an overnight, it definitely makes sense to get a hotel – both to get proper rest (especially for kids) and to securely store your luggage while you explore (lugging suitcases around Beijing is no fun). The question is, airport hotel vs. city hotel?
- Airport Hotel Option: If your layover arrival or departure is at odd hours (say you land very late, or depart very early), an on-airport or airport-nearby hotel can be convenient. The Hilton Beijing Capital Airport is located very close to PEK (essentially at the airport, near the entrance to Terminal 3). It’s a 5-star hotel with all amenities – if you arrive late, their free shuttle can pick you up, and you can crash in a comfortable room within 15 minutes of leaving the terminal. It’s a great hotel (spacious rooms, even an indoor pool, and they are accustomed to transit guests). Another option actually inside Terminal 3 in the transit area is the Aerotel, but that’s if you don’t plan to exit immigration and enter China. There are also a few Chinese hotels around the airport that offer free shuttles – these can be cheaper, but check recent reviews for cleanliness and such. One perk: Some airlines offer free transit accommodation for long layovers, especially if it’s their own connecting flight. For instance, Air China has been known to provide a free hotel for >14 hour layovers in Beijing for eligible passengers. These hotels are usually near the airport (not downtown). If you got this benefit, it could save money. The free hotel might be a decent Chinese 3 or 4-star – perfectly fine for a night (clean, with breakfast), but not fancy. If you have this option, weigh the convenience of free + near airport (and then traveling to city in morning) versus potentially paying to stay downtown.
- City Hotel Option: If your arrival isn’t too late and you’re keen to start touring early, staying in the city centre can be more efficient. Family-friendly areas to stay: Around Wangfujing or the Forbidden City is a good choice. It’s central and convenient for major sights. There’s a Hilton, Marriott, Novotel, and many other hotels in that zone. Many of these international chains will have cribs for babies and toddlers available, English-speaking staff, and familiar standards. Another area is the Guomao/CBD (business district) but that’s less about sightseeing and more about high-end hotels. If you want a more local experience, there are some boutique courtyard hotels in the hutongs that are very atmospheric (like Shichahai area). They can be charming but sometimes less convenient (smaller rooms, maybe no elevator, staff English ability varies). We opted to stay in the Chaoyang area, so that we had a little more room to breathe rather than be in dense crowds everywhere we went. We stayed at the Livefortuna Hotel on Yabao road – and would highly recommend it. Check out my hotel review of Livefortuna Hotel.
Special considerations for autism: Choosing the right hotel might make a difference in comfort. Perhaps request a quiet room (away from elevators, not facing a busy street). Larger hotels usually honour such requests. If your child has particular food preferences, check if the hotel has 24-hour room service or a convenience store nearby in case you need safe food at odd hours. Beijing tap water isn’t drinkable, but hotels provide bottled water – use that for mixing any formula or for brushing teeth for the kids, to be safe.
Another thought: If your family would benefit from more space and privacy, there are hotels that offer family suites or serviced apartments (e.g., Ascott or Marriott Apartments). But for one night, that might be overkill unless the cost is similar to a regular room. This is why we opted for the Livefortuna Hotel, because we could get a family suite that had two double beds and a sofa – enough space for the five of us.
Summary: There is no “one-size-fits-all” – either airport or city hotel can work. If you want zero worry about morning traffic, perhaps sleep near the airport. If you want to immerse in Beijing right away, sleep in the city. In both cases, arrange transport accordingly and give yourself time.
Useful apps to use in Beijing
Traveling in China has gotten a lot easier with smartphones. Here are some apps and digital tools that will be particularly useful during your Beijing layover:
- Beijing Capital Airport (PEK) App: First, the airport itself has an official app. It provides interactive terminal maps, real-time flight updates, and even queue times for security/customs. It can be handy if you want to navigate the airport’s facilities or check your departure gate and timing while you’re out in the city.
- WeChat (微信, Weixin): This is the essential Chinese app. It’s like WhatsApp, Facebook, and Apple Pay rolled into one super-app. Download WeChat and set it up with your phone number. You can use it to text or call your tour guide or driver (most Chinese will happily add you on WeChat for easier communication). If you make any local friends or need help, people might suggest adding on WeChat. It has a translate feature for messages (long press a Chinese message and tap “Translate” to read it in English). WeChat Pay (wallet feature) is huge in China, but to use it as a foreigner, you may need a Chinese bank card or try linking an international card – recently they’ve opened up some support for foreign Visa/= and Mastercards for digital payments. It might be a bit of a process to set up, but if you manage, you could pay for things by scanning QR codes (ubiquitous in shops). That said, for a short stay, cash or card is fine for larger purchases.
- Alipay (支付宝): The other big payment app. Alipay has a specific “Tour Pass” program where foreigners can use a prepaid wallet linked to their international card. If you’re keen to go cashless, you could download Alipay and follow the instructions to load, say, CNY 500 into a temporary account. This isn’t absolutely necessary, but note: some places in China (like certain taxis or small vendors) might not accept foreign credit cards at all, and sometimes even cash can be awkward if they don’t have change, because everyone uses mobile pay. Having Alipay or WeChat Pay set up can overcome those hurdles and save you from stress in that moment. However, you might get by without if you stick to tourist-oriented businesses which usually still accept cash. It’s really convenient if you have it – for example, you can pay DiDi rides through it, buy snacks by scanning a code, etc.
- DiDi Chuxing: As mentioned earlier, DiDi is the ride-hail app. Download the “DiDi – Greater China” version which has English. Set up an account with your phone number. If you have an international credit card added or Alipay/WeChat Pay linked, you can pay through the app. DiDi can be used to call regular taxis (they call it DiDi Express or DiDi Premier for nicer cars, or just “Taxi” which hails a cab). It’s useful if you’re somewhere and can’t find a cab, or you want the comfort of inputting your destination in English. There’s also a feature to translate messages to/from the driver. Drivers often will call to confirm pickup, but you can respond with a canned message like “I don’t speak Chinese” (the app can send one) or just text in English – sometimes they’ll just show up at the pin. Since you’re with kids, consider DiDi if you leave one spot and need to get to another and taxis are scarce.
- Google Maps / Apple Maps: Google Maps does technically work in China for mapping (if you have a VPN, see below, or if you use it offline). But without a VPN it may not load new data. Apple Maps (if you have an iPhone) works without VPN and has decent maps of Beijing with English. Note that map apps sometimes have a quirk in China: the China government requires a certain “offset” in GPS, so some foreign map apps might show you slightly off-position. But generally, you can use them for basic navigation. Baidu Maps or Gaode Maps (Amap) are the Chinese equivalents – incredibly detailed, but in Chinese. If you can read basic Chinese or just want to see location dots, you could try them, but they’re probably overkill for a layover. One neat thing: if you type or say a place name in English into Baidu Maps, often it will recognize it and show it (with the English name in results). Might help to show a driver the Chinese address.
- Metro Apps: If you plan to use the subway independently, an app like “MetroMan” or “Explore Beijing” can give you an offline subway map, route planner, and travel time estimate. They’re straightforward and don’t require internet once downloaded. You could also use the built-in map – Apple Maps, for instance, will plot public transport directions in Beijing fairly well. The subway is user-friendly though: signage is bilingual, so even without an app you can navigate by reading the station names.
- Google Translate / Microsoft Translator: Language will be the biggest barrier in doing things independently. Google Translate works great with internet, but Google services are blocked in China’s normal internet. If you have a VPN (see next point), then Google Translate can function fully (including cool features like using your camera to translate signs or menus on the fly). If you don’t have a VPN, download the offline Chinese pack in Google Translate beforehand – that way you can still type in phrases or show Chinese text and get basic translations offline. Alternatively, Microsoft Translator is not blocked and can work without VPN; it also supports camera and voice translation. Many travelers use a combo – whatever works in the moment. Another highly recommended tool specifically for Chinese is Pleco – it’s a dictionary app, incredibly powerful. You can draw Chinese characters by hand into it and it will tell you the word, or use the optical character reader (if you buy that add-on). It’s more for language geeks or if you have specific words you want to be sure of.
- VPN (Virtual Private Network): If you want full internet access like you have at home (to use Google, Gmail, YouTube, Facebook, Instagram, WhatsApp calls, etc.), you’ll need a VPN app. Popular ones (ExpressVPN, NordVPN, Astrill, etc.) should be installed and set up before you arrive in China (important, because their websites might be blocked once you’re there). Free VPNs are not reliable; a paid one is worth it even for a short trip if you need connectivity. Uploading photos to Instagram or contacting someone via Gmail – those need VPN. Plan accordingly. Personally, I use NordVPN and have access to others via my malware software package. You can use my NordVPN referral link to get 1 month for free!
- Others: If you want to get a Chinese SIM card for data (since roaming data might be expensive), the airport has SIM vendors. You can rely on free Wi-Fi in many places (airport, hotel, even Starbucks) – although note: to use public Wi-Fi in China often requires receiving an SMS code or scanning passport due to regulations. Airport Wi-Fi at PEK has a kiosk that scans your passport and gives you a login code. In town, some Wi-Fi like “CMCC” (China Mobile) will prompt a Chinese phone number SMS. If you’re getting around with a guide/driver, you might not need constant data. That said, having mobile data is very useful for maps and translation on the go. Check what your mobile carrier charges for international roaming; some have decent day passes.
- Entertainment for kids: Remember, many of the streaming services or sites like Netflix, Disney+, YouTube Kids, etc., won’t work without VPN. So if you rely on an iPad to keep your child entertained, download videos offline before you travel. You can download Netflix shows to the device, for example. Same for any apps that might need internet – make sure they can run offline or have data. For YouTube, you have to have a premium subscription to download videos to watch offline.
- Air Quality Alert: An app like “AirVisual” can show you Beijing’s AQI. If it’s a heavy pollution day (unlucky, but it happens especially in winter), you might decide to adjust plans (e.g., do more indoor stuff or at least wear masks outside). The Chinese government also has data – often just looking up “Beijing AQI” on any search will show you a number. Good Air is 0-50 (rare), Moderate 50-100, Unhealthy for sensitive 100-150, Unhealthy 150-200 (consider mask), Very Unhealthy/ Hazardous 200+. The last few years have seen fewer extreme smog days, but it can spike.
By equipping your phone with some of these apps, you’ll navigate Beijing more smoothly and feel more connected. It’s truly impressive how much you can overcome language barriers with a simple translation app in hand. And many Chinese people are curious and friendly – I’ve had folks pull out their translation app to communicate with me when I was stuck. Worst-case, a smile and gestures go a long way. And you can always prepare in advance by learning some basic Chinese via apps like Duolingo.
Useful phrases for Beijing
Learning a few Mandarin Chinese phrases will enrich your layover experience. Even if your pronunciation isn’t perfect, locals appreciate the effort. Here are some handy ones (with Mandarin in bold, pinyin pronunciation in italics, and the English meaning):
- 你好 (nǐ hǎo) – Hello.
This is the basic greeting. Use it when approaching someone, like “你好” to a cashier or a staff member; it’s polite and friendly. - 谢谢 (xièxie) – Thank you.
Essential for courtesy. After someone helps you or serves you, a “谢谢” accompanied by a smile goes a long way. - 不好意思 (bù hǎo yìsi) – Excuse me/Sorry (to bother you).
This is used to get someone’s attention politely, or to apologize in a mild way (like if you accidentally bump into someone). For example, you might say this to a stranger if you need to ask for directions, akin to “pardon me”. - 对不起 (duìbuqǐ) – I’m sorry.
This is a stronger apology (for a mistake). You likely won’t need this unless something goes awry, but good to know. If your child accidentally knocks something over in a shop, a quick “对不起” is appropriate. - 厕所在哪里? (cèsuǒ zài nǎlǐ?) – Where is the toilet?
Vital question when traveling with kids! “厕所” means toilet/restroom. (Another word you might see is 洗手间 xǐshǒujiān, which literally means “wash room” and is common on signs). To use this phrase, you could say it to a staff person at an attraction or restaurant. They may respond with some directions – if you don’t understand, they might point. - 多少錢? (duōshao qián?) – How much is it?
If you’re shopping at a market or buying street food without prices listed, this is useful. Note: In China, merchants may either type the number on a calculator/phone to show you, or even hand you a calculator to type what you’re willing to pay (bargaining situations). Knowing Chinese numbers helps, but if not, have them write it or use a translator app. (For reference, 1: 一 yī, 2: 二 èr/ 两 liǎng, 3: 三 sān, 4: 四 sì, 5: 五 wǔ, 6: 六 liù, 7: 七 qī, 8: 八 bā, 9: 九 jiǔ, 10: 十 shí. But prices beyond 10 get more complicated with tens/hundreds.) - 可以刷卡吗? (kěyǐ shuā kǎ ma?) – Can I pay by card?
“刷卡” means swipe card. In many shops, they understand English “Credit card?” but this phrase might help in a smaller store. They’ll usually either say 可以 (kěyǐ – can) or 不可以 (bù kěyǐ – cannot) or just shake their head no. More and more places take cards these days, but many still don’t, relying on mobile pay/cash. - 请帮忙拍照。 (qǐng bāngmáng pāi zhào.) – Please help take a photo.
If you want a family photo at a site, you can ask a passerby this. “请” means please, “帮忙” is help, “拍照” is take a picture. Pair it with a smile and gesturing to your camera – most people will understand even if they don’t catch every word. - 我的孩子有自闭症。 (wǒ de háizi yǒu zìbìzhèng.) – My child has autism.
This is a phrase you might use only if necessary – for instance, if you’re in a situation where your autistic child is overwhelmed (say a meltdown in public) and you need a bit of understanding from those around. “自闭症” (zìbìzhèng) is the term for autism. Awareness in China is growing, but it’s not as widespread; however, people tend to be sympathetic if they understand the situation. You could follow with 请多包涵 (qǐng duō bāohan) meaning “please excuse (us)” or 请您耐心 (qǐng nín nàixīn) meaning “please be patient”. Body language and tone will convey a lot too. Honestly, you might not need to say this explicitly – you could just focus on your child and not worry about others – but having the phrase might give you confidence that you can explain if needed. - 没关系 (méi guānxi) – It’s okay/No problem.
You might hear this if, say, you apologize for something (like bumping someone and saying 不好意思), they might respond “没关系” meaning “no worries, it’s alright.” You can also use it if someone says sorry to you. - 再见 (zàijiàn) – Goodbye.
A polite way to end an interaction. Saying “谢谢,再见!” (Thank you, goodbye) to a guide or driver or cashier is nice. - 挺好的 (tǐng hǎo de) – Very good.
Just a casual phrase if someone asks how something was, or even when giving a compliment. If you eat at a small eatery and want to praise the food, you can say to the chef “挺好的!” with a thumbs-up. It will make them happy. - 请问… (qǐngwèn) – Excuse me, may I ask…
This is a polite start to a question with a stranger. For example: “请问,天安门怎么走?” (Excuse me, how to get to Tiananmen?) – a bit advanced, but you get the idea. Even just “请问…” and pointing to a map can signal you need help.
Finally, keep in mind body language and smiles transcend language. The Chinese are generally kind to families with children. You might get the occasional curious look, especially if your kids look obviously foreign – don’t worry, that’s normal curiosity. If someone approaches your kids, they may just be saying hello or complimenting them. Common things locals might say to your child (in Chinese) could be “可爱!” (kě’ài – cute!) or to you “几岁了?” (jǐ suì le? – how old?). You can answer with fingers or simple English, it’s fine.
One more phrase that’s useful if traveling on your own: 打表吗? (dǎ biǎo ma?) – “Do you use the meter?” This is to ask a taxi driver to run the meter (to avoid flat fare ripoff). In Beijing, if you take taxis from legitimate stands you usually don’t need this, they will use the meter by law. But if you ever grabbed one on street and want to ensure fairness, you can ask. If they say no or hesitate, better find another cab or use DiDi.
Good to know
To round out this guide, here are some additional tips and miscellaneous information that are “good to know” for your Beijing layover:
- Currency: China’s currency is the Renminbi (RMB), also called yuan (元). The exchange rate fluctuates, but as a rough guide, ¥100 is about $14 USD (or £11). You’ll primarily see banknotes of ¥100 (red, Mao’s portrait), ¥50 (green), ¥20, ¥10, ¥5, and ¥1. There are also coins for ¥1, and smaller jiao coins (¥0.1, ¥0.5) but you probably won’t deal with those much. It’s a cash society historically, but as mentioned, mobile payments have overtaken cash in daily life. Still, as a foreigner, cash is handy.
- Counterfeit notes: Unfortunately, fake currency can be an issue in China. The main thing is be cautious if receiving lots of change in ¥100 notes from small vendors – though likely not a problem on a short legit tour. ATMs at banks give genuine notes, so stick to those. Also, taxi drivers might claim a ¥100 you gave is fake (when it’s actually they who swapped it). To avoid that scam: try to use smaller bills for taxis, or be firm if you know it’s impossible because you got it from ATM. This is not super common but worth knowing.
- Great Firewall (Internet censorship): We touched on VPNs in the apps section, but to reiterate: China blocks popular sites like Google (and all Google services like Gmail, Maps unless you have VPN), Facebook, Instagram, YouTube, Twitter, WhatsApp (texting usually works, but sending images or making calls on WhatsApp is hit or miss without VPN). If being connected to those is important during your layover, get a VPN set up. If it’s a short time and you can unplug, you might enjoy the digital detox. You can use alternatives: Bing works (with safe search on heavily), and there’s the English version of Baidu for basic info searches. Also, map out important info offline – e.g., have your hotel name and address saved (in Chinese ideally) as a screenshot or note, have a list of key phrases, etc., in case your internet access is spotty when out and about.
- Air quality & health: Beijing’s air quality, while improving, can sometimes be poor. If you or your kids have asthma or sensitivity, consider packing an N95/KN95 mask to wear outdoors if the AQI is very high. You can check AQI on weather apps or ask your hotel. That said, many days are moderate or even clear.
- Bathrooms: Most tourist sites and modern buildings have Western-style toilets available (at least a stall or two among the squat options). The airport and hotels definitely have Western toilets. However, in local places you might encounter only squat toilets (essentially a porcelain hole in the ground). It’s actually hygienic in that you don’t touch anything, but can be a challenge if you’ve never used one or have small kids. My tip: Always carry some tissue paper packets, because some bathrooms don’t supply toilet paper (the expectation is locals carry tissues). Also, hand sanitizer because soap might not be present. Many public restrooms have an attendant selling tissue at the door if you forgot (or just handing them out expecting a tip). With kids, if you have a toddler, you may have to assist in squatting or just be ready. For a child with sensory issues, the different style and smell of a public restroom could be bothersome – try to use the nicer restrooms when available (like at your hotel or a clean restaurant) to avoid unpleasant experiences. Chinese bathrooms can also be very public (stall doors sometimes don’t fully close, etc.), so be prepared for a different setup than home.
- Food and drink: Generally, food in Beijing is safe to eat especially from established restaurants. Street food hygiene can vary. Since your time is short, you probably won’t venture too far into obscure food stalls. But if you do try street snacks, go for ones that are cooked hot in front of you (grilled meat, fried pancakes, etc.). Avoid raw cold dishes from street vendors. Peel fruits or wash them with bottled water. Tap water in Beijing is not potable. Use bottled water for drinking and brushing teeth (we did mention that, but it bears repeating). Hotels provide free bottled water – use that for everything. If you need more, you can buy it cheaply at any convenience store (a big 1.5L bottle might be ¥5 or less).
- Scams to avoid: Beijing is relatively safe, but touristy areas have a few scams: The most famous is the “tea house scam” – where very friendly English-speaking young people approach saying they want to practice English, then invite you to a tea ceremony and you end up with a huge bill. Simple avoidance: if well-dressed strangers near Tiananmen or Wangfujing try to overly befriend you and suggest an activity, politely decline. Or the “art student exhibit” scam – similar approach, leading you to buy overpriced art. These are easy to avoid if you know them. Also, only use legit taxis – at the airport, follow the official taxi line; ignore guys inside saying “taxi taxi”. In town, have your hotel call one or use DiDi if possible. If you must hail, look for the green or yellow taxi with a license displayed.
- Traffic and pedestrian safety: Beijing drivers are… aggressive. As a pedestrian, be cautious. Even if you have a walk signal, always double-check for turning cars. They often won’t stop for pedestrians, especially right turns on red are allowed and drivers may honk and push through. Hold your child’s hand, and cross in a group if possible (safety in numbers). Electric scooters are also everywhere and quiet – they might come up on sidewalks. So just stay aware of surroundings. Strollers can be used on sidewalks, but note many sidewalks have periodic steps or barriers (to deter bikes), so it can be a bit inconvenient. Also the subway can be crowded and not all stations have elevators (though many do). If you have a baby stroller, you might end up carrying it on stairs at some point or folding it.
- Etiquette: Chinese people love kids and you might find people being very welcoming. Don’t be shocked if someone wants to pat your child on the head or give them a small candy (it can happen). They usually ask you in gestures if it’s okay. Use your judgment – generally they mean well. If your child has autism and doesn’t like to be touched or approached, just keep a distance and perhaps explain “他不喜欢” (tā bù xǐhuan – “he doesn’t like (that)”) and people should back off. It’s okay to say no or just smile and hold your child close to prevent touches.
- Staring: As mentioned, foreign tourists (especially Westerners) can attract stares in some parts of China. In Beijing it’s not too bad since they see many tourists. But if you venture to a less touristy spot or even at the Great Wall with domestic tourists around, you might have a few onlookers. Some might even politely ask for a photo with you or your kids (blonde children, for instance, are a rarity and seen as adorable). You can say yes or no. If it’s a quick thing and they’re nice, it can make their day to have a photo. But you’re not obliged. For an autistic child, this could be overwhelming – you as a parent can gently wave off photo requests or just say “不好” (bùhǎo – no/not okay) with a polite tone. Chinese folks will understand and usually retreat. They aren’t trying to be rude by staring; often it’s just curiosity or excitement to see foreigners.
- Emergencies: The emergency number for police is 110, ambulance 120, fire 119. If you have a medical emergency, honestly the fastest might be to grab a taxi to a major hospital (like Beijing United Family Hospital for foreigners, or Peking Union Medical College Hospital). But that’s extremely unlikely on a short trip. Carry basic meds you might need, especially things like Calpol for children as they can be harder to find in Beijing. If you need a pharmacy, look for a green cross sign or ask your hotel. Many staff at hotels can help you buy simple medication if needed.
- Time Zone: Beijing is GMT+8 (China has one time zone across the whole country).
- Packing consideration: Even for a day in Beijing, pack layers. The weather can swing – a cool morning but a hot midday, etc. Also, a small foldable umbrella is good for either rain or sun (Chinese often use umbrellas to block strong sun as well). And comfortable shoes, since you’ll likely walk a lot during sightseeing (the Forbidden City alone is about a kilometer end-to-end!).
- Kids entertainment: If you have downtime, there are a few kid-specific things in Beijing (like the Beijing Zoo or a Science Museum). If your child has a particular interest (trains, animals, etc.), maybe incorporate a small related treat – e.g., if they love trains, the Airport Express ride or a look at the old steam locomotive on display at the Beijing Railway Museum (just east of Tiananmen) could thrill them. If they love pandas, note that Beijing Zoo has pandas.
- Communication: You’ll likely have a phone – keep it charged. Bring a power bank if you have one, as navigating and translating drains battery. Keep in mind that flying with a Chinese airline means that you will need a power bank that meets their safety requirements. In China, they use the same plug type as US (type A) for two-prong, and type I or type C in some places. Many hotels have universal sockets or will lend adapters. At the airport and some cafes, you might find charging stations. The airport even has portable power bank rentals. But easier is to have your own.
- Time Management: On a layover, the clock is always ticking. It’s a balance between seeing as much as possible and not missing your flight. Always leave a cushion. Aim to be back at PEK 3 hours (international) or 2 hours (domestic) before departure. It’s better to spend 30 extra minutes in the airport lounge or food court than to be stuck in traffic panicking. Keep an eye on local time; perhaps set an alarm for when you must head to the airport.
- Beijing’s traffic patterns: roughly 7-9 AM is rush hour into the city, and 5-7 PM is rush hour out of the city. There are also often unpredictable jams. If you can avoid those windows or go opposite direction, do it.
A layover in Beijing is a whirlwind, but it can also be incredibly rewarding. You’ll have stories to tell – from climbing ancient steps on the Great Wall to tasting Beijing snacks to navigating a foreign city with your family. By being prepared (as you are, by reading this guide!), you’ll handle the challenges and be able to focus on the fun and awe of being in such a historic and vibrant city even for a short time.
Head to our China travel hub for more guides to Beijing and China.
I just want to mention that we have also created a pack of Beijing PECS cards for families visiting Beijing with an autistic child.