Split With Autistic Children

Split with Autistic children

Visiting Split with autistic children might not be the first destination that comes to mind when considering a sensory-friendly getaway for your family. But if, like me, you have an adventurous spirit or happen to find yourself on a Mediterranean or Adriatic cruise, you may just end up in the historic city of Split with your autistic child. We recently visited Split (as a port stop on our cruise on Costa Deliziosa) with our three kids, two who are diagnosed with autism, and discovered that with some planning and flexibility, it’s possible to enjoy this stunning Croatian city while respecting your child’s sensory needs. Here is my friendly guide to navigating Split in a way that can be enjoyable and manageable for your autistic loved one.

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Getting To Split

Split with Autistic children Split city
Split with Autistic children kids
Split with Autistic children Diocletians Palace

Most travelers reach Split via Split Airport (airport code SPU), but it’s also a popular cruise port and ferry hub in Croatia. If you’re flying into Split Airport, you have a few options for getting into the city centre, which is about 20 km away:

  • Airport Shuttle Bus: A direct shuttle bus (operated by Pleso Prijevoz) runs between Split Airport and the main Split bus station near the port. It departs frequently (every 20–30 minutes) and takes about 35–40 minutes to reach the city. Tickets cost around 3–5 € per person (roughly $4–$6) and can be purchased on the bus. This is an affordable option if your autistic child is comfortable with bus rides. It’s a straight route with no stops, which keeps things simple.
  • Public City Bus: Local bus line 37 also connects the airport to Split, but it makes multiple stops and can take 40+ minutes. The public bus is cheap (around €2–3 ), however it may be crowded and less predictable. If your child is sensitive to crowded public transport or if you have lots of luggage, this might not be the ideal choice.
  • Taxi or Rideshare: Taking a taxi directly from the airport to downtown Split takes around 30 minutes. The fare is approximately 50 € (about $55) for up to 4 people. Services like Uber or Bolt operate in Split as well – an Uber for a family of four costs around 45 €, and a larger van about €60 .This is the fastest and most comfortable way, but of course more expensive. If your autistic child does better in private, quiet settings, a taxi or pre-booked transfer might be worth the cost. (Note: Croatian law requires child car seats in private vehicles. Taxis may not provide them, so plan accordingly for safety.)
  • Ferry or Cruise: We personally arrived by cruise ship, which was wonderfully convenient. The cruise port in Split is adjacent to the Old Town – we literally stepped off the ship and within a 10-minute walk we were at the entrance of Diocletian’s Palace. If you arrive by ferry from another city or on a cruise, you won’t need any additional transportation to reach the main sights – a big plus when managing kids after a journey. The area between the port and Old Town is mostly flat and pedestrian-friendly, though it can be busy with people. The walk is not too difficult but it is worth bringing a safety device if you need one (e.g. we used a double stroller for 2 of the kids but reigns or disability strollers also work fine).

No matter how you get to Split with autistic children, try to arrive at a time that suits your child’s routine if possible. Be mindful of which days cruise ships are porting in Split, and avoid busier times if you think crowds could cause distress. After a long flight or drive, allow some decompression time. We planned a low-key first activity in Split (basically just walking into Split to see some of the sites that are available outside and for free) to let the kids adjust after the journey. And as always, have snacks and comfort items handy in case of delays or sensory overwhelm on the way from the airport to the city.

Where To Stay in Split

I have no personal recommendations on where to stay in Split because we did the city as a cruise stop. The city is fairly walkable, and you could easily pick somewhere across the city and use it as a base to explore Split by foot.

Family-Friendly Activities in Split

Split’s compact historic centre and waterfront make it a great place to explore with kids. We had just one full day in Split (thanks to our cruise itinerary), so we focused on a few key family-friendly attractions.

Diocletian’s Palace

The famous Diocletian’s Palace, a UNESCO World Heritage site and the crown jewel of Split’s Old Town, is one of the best place to visit in Split. Don’t let the word “palace” fool you – this is not a single building but a whole complex of ancient walls, courtyards, and narrow stone alleyways dating back to the 4th century. Walking through the Palace area is like wandering a maze of history. Best of all for families, it’s entirely pedestrianized, which means no traffic to worry about and a bit more freedom for sensory seekers to roam (within eyesight, of course!). Our kids loved exploring here – there was always something to look at around each corner, from old Roman columns to friendly stray cats basking in the sun.

Diocletians Palace Split
Sylvie at Diocletians Palace
Split with autistic children

The Palace can get very busy during the day, especially in peak summer and when multiple tour groups or cruise groups arrive. The central Peristyle Square, with its iconic columns and the cathedral, is usually the most crowded and echoey spot. Keep a hand on younger kids, as the open courtyards can suddenly fill up with people or even impromptu street performances (watch out for the waving spears of Roman soldiers, they’re there to pose for photos and aren’t really paying attention to kids walking by).

Diocletian’s Cellars

Beneath the palace, you can visit the substructures known as the Cellars (basement halls). We found the cellars to be a great sensory break. They are cooler, darker, and much quieter than the bustling streets above – a welcome respite on a hot day. Our autistic children, who were starting to get overwhelmed by the noise outside, visibly relaxed in the calm underground chambers.

Diocletian's cellars Split
Diocletian's cellars Split
Diocletian's cellars Split

There’s a small entrance fee to tour the cellars, we opted not to do this and just explored the parts you can visit for free. These vast halls had few visitors when we went, so our kids could walk and run a bit and it didn’t bother anyone. You can do a guided walking tour of Split Old Town and Diocletian’s Palace via GetYourGuide.

The Game Of Thrones Museum

We decided to visit the Game of Thrones Museum in Split’s Old Town (located on Bosanska Street, a short walk from the Palace). David and I are both casual fans of the show, and we knew that being inside and out of the sun for a while would be welcomed by the kids. This is a privately run small museum filled with costumes, props, and memorabilia from the TV show, much of which was filmed in Croatia. The museum is relatively small and can be toured in about 30 minutes. For our family, it provided a nice indoor activity (a break from the sun and crowds outside). The museum is dimly lit with dramatic lighting on the displays.

Game of Thrones Museum Split
Game of Thrones Museum Split
Game of Thrones Museum Split

There are life-size figures (think mannequins dressed as characters like Jon Snow), weapon replicas, and even a replica Iron Throne you can sit on for a photo (you have to visit the shop across the street for this). Our kids found the dragon displays and swords very cool. We went in the early afternoon and it was empty, which was great for us – we didn’t have to worry about crowds or waiting. If your child doesn’t like dark or confined spaces, be aware there are a few small rooms and the lighting is intentionally moody. They had us store our stroller at the front desk (and they have cameras) so it was nice for the kids to get out and walk in the safety of the museum. Plan ahead and get your tickets for The Game of Thrones Museum Split on GetYourGuide.

Duck Shop Split

One unexpected delight inside the palace was a tiny shop we stumbled upon selling nothing but rubber ducks – yes, you read that right! This quirky Duck Shop had so many themed rubber ducks (from superheroes to princesses). Believe it or not, this ended up being one of the biggest hits with our kids. They have been collecting rubber ducks during our travels, but usually through claw machines so they absolutely loved having so much choice for which duck to pick. It was a fantastic incidental sensory break – the shop was small and quiet, and the kids were focused on the colourful ducks, giving them a chance to calm down from the sightseeing hustle outside. Bonus – we had been given a discount leaflet for the Duck Shop Split with our tickets to The Game of Thrones Museum.

Museum of Illusions

This attraction was a huge hit with our children and a top recommendation for families visiting Split with autistic children. The Museum of Illusions is exactly what it sounds like – a collection of interactive exhibits and rooms that play tricks on your eyes and senses. If you’ve been to a Museum of Illusions in other cities, you know what to expect: tilted rooms that mess with your balance, mirrors and holograms, puzzling visual displays, and brain-teaser games.

Split MOI
Split MOI
Split MOI

Many of the exhibits are very sensory and interactive – which can be great for sensory seekers. There are some puzzles and games for children to try out at the reception area, too. Both my boys were naturally drawn to this and we ended purchased a few from the gift store to bring home! I love that whatever the city, we have always been able to find our Museum of Illusions tickets on GetYourGuide.

Check out my Instagram reel from the Museum of Illusions in Split here.

Our Favourite Sensory-Friendly Experience In Split

Bačvice Beach

Bačvice is the most popular beach in Split, famous for its shallow sandy bay where even small children can walk far out into the sea. It was about a 20-minute walk from the Old Town along the waterfront. From the cruise and ferry port, the beach is only about 10 minutes walk. The sandy area is fairly compact but the water stays shallow for a long distance out, making it almost like a giant wading pool – perfect for younger kids or anyone not confident in deep water. Our children were thrilled to switch from cultural and historical spots in Split to having a splash in the gentle Adriatic waves. If your autistic child is a sensory seeker who loves water, Bačvice will be a little slice of heaven. The water is warm and only about knee-to-waist deep for a good stretch.

Split Beach
Beach in Split Croatia
Beach in Split Croatia

On the other hand, if your child is sensitive to sand (the texture) or dislikes the sticky saltwater feeling, you’ll want to come prepared. There are showers (open on the beach) and a tap to wash sand off and they are free for anyone to use. There are bits of seaweed on the beach, this can be a sensory issue with some children. The beach is also fairly busy, and honestly the teenagers with no parents around are disrespectful and will throw handfuls of wet sand around (it hit my kids and my expensive camera multiple times despite me making my opinion on their game clear). Overall, we think this was our absolute favourite activity in Split with autistic children.

I have a light-hearted carousel and a reel on Instagram about Sylvie at this beach in Split (spoiler: she is absolutely covered in sand that is like a paste.)

Getting Around Split With Autistic Children

Once you’re in Split, you’ll find that getting around the city with kids – including those on the spectrum – is fairly straightforward, but there are a few considerations to keep in mind. Split’s historic centre is compact and mostly pedestrian-only, which is a double-edged sword: on one hand, it’s great because you don’t have to worry about traffic through the Old Town streets, and walking is often the best way to see everything; on the other hand, it means a lot of walking on potentially uneven surfaces, which can tire kids out or cause sensory fatigue.

We chose to walk almost everywhere in Split’s centre. Distances are short – for example, it’s about 20 minutes from Diocletian’s Palace to Bačvice Beach, and only a few minutes from one end of the Old Town to the other. Walking gave us flexibility to move at our own pace, pause when needed, and it provided our kids with much-needed movement input (they need to run and move to stay regulated, so walking was actually helpful rather than constantly hopping in and out of vehicles). The key was to factor in extra time for walking so that we never had to rush a tired or overstimulated child. If your child is young or prone to eloping, consider a travel stroller or a safety harness; the Old Town can get crowded and there are lots of nooks and crannies where a curious child could wander off. A stroller is usable on many streets, but note that some Old Town lanes have steps or very narrow passages – we got stuck in one with the double stroller and Luke ran off ahead and I had to run off after him and leave the stroller with David (which was harder than it sounds because I’d been the one pushing it and people were already pushed up behind me to follow me into the narrow lane).

  • Taxis/Ride-shares: Taxis are readily available around the port, the bus station, and major roads. We didn’t end up using a taxi in Split with autistic children since we were able to walk everywhere we planned to go. However, it’s comforting to know that if plans go awry – say, a sudden meltdown or an exhaustion point – you can call an Uber/Bolt or grab a taxi to quickly get back to your hotel or ship. Most drivers speak at least basic English. One caution: if your autistic child needs a car seat or special restraint, plan ahead. Croatian law requires car seats for kids under 5 in private cars, but taxis are often exempt – meaning they likely won’t have one.
  • Public Buses: Split does have a public bus network that can take you to areas outside the centre (for example, if you wanted to go to a mall or out to a suburb). We didn’t need this, but it’s good to know that the main local bus terminal is right next to the port. Bus #12 goes to Marjan Hill (for the park) and buses #60 or others can reach outlying areas. If you have a day trip to somewhere like Klis Fortress or Trogir, buses are an option. For autistic travellers, consider the usual factors: time of day (buses can be hot and crowded during peak hours), noise (they can get loud/bumpy), and waiting time at stops. We generally use local buses when we turn up to the stop and they are due within a few minutes.
  • Ferries/Boats: Though not within Split, you might take a ferry if you plan an island excursion. The ferry port is central and bustling. We did not attempt a separate boat trip due to limited time, but I’ll note: the ferries to nearby islands (like Brač or Hvar) are large and more like mini-cruise ships inside – spacious with seats and even cafes. Smaller tour boats (for snorkelling trips, etc.) might be cramped and noisy, something to keep in mind if your child is sound-sensitive or needs space.

In short, what works for getting around will depend on your family’s needs at the moment. For fun, why not try a Tuk Tuk ride in Split with autistic children?! Our children loved the Tuk Tuk rides in Bangkok!

Is Split Autism-Friendly?

You might be wondering, in general, how autism-friendly is Split? The answer, based on our experience, is that Split doesn’t necessarily have specific autism-friendly accommodations or public awareness like you might find in some theme parks or airports, but it is a city that offers a mix of environments and generally welcoming people, which can certainly cater to an autism family’s needs with a bit of planning.

We didn’t encounter anything in Split with autistic children that was blatantly insensitive or hostile regarding autism. In fact, most locals and staff we interacted with were kind or simply politely indifferent (which sometimes is exactly what you need – no one batting an eye at a stim or a meltdown).

We found that Split was a very historic and cultural city with lots of this being able to be visited from the street (e.g. statues, Diocletian’s Palace, Diocletian’s Cellars and the promenade along the shore). We find this type of sight-seeing works really well for us because we turn up and leave any time we want to. The biggest challenge in Split for an autistic child, in my opinion, is the sensory intensity of the peak tourist areas. During busy hours, the narrow streets of Old Town echo with sounds (people talking, tour guides, musicians, etc.), and personal space can be limited. If your child is noise-sensitive or needs a calm bubble, you will want to be strategic about timing and routes. The streets are small and new streets can appear out of nowhere, this can be exciting and cause elopement – this was a very real problem for us in Split but we were seeing just as much, if not more distress when trying to keep the smaller 2 in their stroller seats to navigate the city.

Things That Make Stand Out

  • Split’s main attractions are very close to each other. For us, a family travelling Split with autistic children, this meant minimal transitions and transport time – a big plus when you want to avoid meltdowns. We could walk back to our accommodation (or cruise ship) anytime we needed to, or duck into a quiet side street within minutes if the crowds got to be too much. That flexibility to quickly change course or take a timeout was invaluable.
  • We found that almost everyone we interacted with in tourism (waiters, museum staff, taxi drivers) spoke at least basic English, if not fluent. This made it much easier to ask for help or explain our needs. For instance, when we needed to order the kids plain french fries and then ask for tomato ketchup they understood right away and were happy to oblige. Not having a language barrier in Split with autistic children reduced a lot of stress.
  • Split surprisingly offered something for each of our kids’ special interests. Our oldest autistic son showed a big interest in everything Game of Thrones during our visit and loved the museum and gift stores. There’s also plenty for vehicle lovers like my little girl (boats everywhere, a bustling harbour with ferries and cruise ships to watch) and animal lovers (we saw numerous cats wandering and playing). The biggest bonus was the Duck Shop – all three kids are into rubber ducks and loved this little spot and picking their own duck.
  • We were relieved that Split had familiar foods that our kids would eat. You’ll find international fast-food chains like McDonald’s, and while we know recipes can differ abroad, the comfort of familiar packaging and tastehelps our kids feel secure. We did not visit McDonald’s in Split – which is actually surprising for us! Instead we visited a little restaurant near the Museum of Illusions where it was quiet and shaded from the sun. It was a nice and safe spot for the kids to sit and we could tell by the menu on display that they were able to make french fries.

Tips for a Smooth Experience

  1. Plan Ahead: Research each location and contact them to discuss any special accommodations your child might need. If you can plan to arrive after check-in time you should, or try to arrange an early check-in.
  2. Sensory Tools: Bring along sensory tools and comfort items that help manage sensory needs, such as noise-cancelling headphones, sensory toys, and a sensory toolkit.
  3. Clear Communication: Ensure that everyone involved in the trip understands the needs and preferences of the neurodiverse individual. Clear communication can prevent misunderstandings and enhance the travel experience. Consider using PECS or an AAC. We have a free pack of travel PECS available for download.
  4. Safety: Consider getting an autism card for your child, or even better – use our emergency passport for medical information and important contacts. Our absolute must have safety item for travelling with an autistic child is a TinyTags wristband or tag that can be tapped or scanned by a mobile phone – giving the person who tapped it all of the information they need to get your child back to you. TinyTags also feature a location alert to help you find your child.

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Would you consider visiting Split with autistic children?